I had my first roll out with my Caterham Hayabusa last weekend. Everything worked well, the only thing I have to ask is the oil pressure. With warm oil the engine has less than 1 bar at idle 1200 1/min with 4000 1/min I have more than 3 bar up to 7 (I have seen at the dash) which should be normal. Is is although normal to have less than 1 bar in idle?
It is probably best if I quote the figures in psi and then you can convert them to Bar (1Bar = 14.7psi). When your engine is cold (oil temperature of 0 - 20degrees C) at tickover, I would expect to see between 50 - 60psi approximately and if revved over 100psi. Obviously this is not recommended until the engine is hot.
As the oil temperature rises, the tickover oil pressure will drop quite quickly and I would expect to see approximately 20psi when oil temperature is 60 degrees C. As the engine is revved, peak oil pressure will probably be just under 100psi. I would recommend that you try and maintain between 80 - 100 degrees C, this way your oil pressure at tickover will be in the region of 7psi and peak oil pressure 60 - 70psi.
The further the temperature rises, the lower the pressure will get, this drop in oil pressure is caused by 2 main factors; first of all the engine block grows dramatically with heat causing increased clearance between the bearings and the crank and secondly the oil itself gets thinner with heat, this is quite normal. If your engine was running a standard oil pump gear as opposed to our uprated gear, I would expect to see a 10% reduction in oil pressure throughout the range. It is not uncommon with oil temperatures in excess of 120 degrees C being tickover oil pressure as low as 2psi and peak oil pressure down to 35psi. The most important thing to look out for is that the oil pressure follows the rpm, if you see any drops in oil pressure at higher rpm it is likely that your oil tank is carrying insufficient oil and therefore oil surge is occurring, which will cause engine damage.
I have a wet sump oil system on my Hayabusa powered hillclimb car, I was thinking of changing to dry sump, do you recommend this change and what are the benefits?
We would always recommend the use of dry sump, we have spent nearly 4 years developing our dry sump system. When using a wet sump engine in a car, the oil level normally has to be raised above the window of the oil level indicator, increasing it's capacity. This has 2 additional problems; first of all the increased oil level means that the crankshaft is fighting through oil (a bit like trying to run through a swimming pool), this will increase the losses the engine sees. The second and more important issue is that when the vehicle is used on the track or hillclimb, the extra oil is being continually thrown about the engine, the losses that this will incur will be almost impossible to measure but will be considerable under certain conditions such as change of direction. Do not forget that when the engine is used on a bike, that the bike is continually leaning and the g-forces automatically force the oil to the bottom of the engine so therefore the problems mentioned above either do not arise or are nowhere near as bad for this reason.
Recently one of our dealers tested a wet sump engine on the rolling road with a full depth standard sump with the oil level filled to the normally Suzuki recommended level, he then converted the same engine to dry sump and found an 4bhp increase in performance. He has still to carry out further tests, so we hope to be able to provide proper results shortly.
Our system has some very clever features, which are designed to reduce oil wastage in the system, therefore helping to maintain maximum oil level in the dry sump tank. The height of the sump is 40mm. It also has built in scavenge troughs, that are enclosed in our two piece sump pan, they connect directly to the scavenge pump and therefore no need for external scavenge pipes. You only have a supply line from the oil tank and return line to the tank, where an oil cooler can be fitted if required.
I’m running a Suzuki Hayabusa in stock condition in a converted Van Dieman chassis (FB). I’ve purchased your dry sump and tank which is working quite well. We set the engine up with dual radiators and one single oil cooler. Water temps have been 170-180 F, oil temps have been 240 degrees and climbing. We have not allowed temps over 240. We're not really sure what is normal oil temps for this engine, but were concerned they were on the edge. Can you offer some info on this and some possible solutions?
The Suzuki Hayabusa engine, as with many Suzuki engines, has evolved from the oil cooled engines and almost as much heat is transmitted into the oil system as the water system. The temperature of your oil at 240F (116C) is ok, but because the engine expands the bearing gaps increase dropping oil pressure. If the temperature could be kept closer to 230F (100C), this would help oil pressure as well. My suggestion would be to increase your oil cooler size significantly. You may also find that once you have managed to reduce the oil temperature, that this will also help to control your water temperature better as well.
My MNR has a 2006 Suzuki Hayabusa engine with dry sump kit. Two breather cans were fitted as part of a mod to the sump kit as my car was spitting oil when it was rolling roaded for set up. The driver side takes a feed from the plate on the gearbox and the other next to the main tank itself. Both cans are then connected by a pipe. The can next to the main tank has had holes drilled into the top. This can fills with oil over time and then reaches a point where it is over half full and then every time the engine is revved oil spits out of the holes onto the engine bay. The oil in the can next to the main tank can not drain using gravity to the other can on the drivers side as the can next to the main tank is lower than the other. Can you recommend what I can do to sort?
There is no reason why you cannot use two catch tanks, but I think your problems can be sorted reasonably simply. I will initially explain what the potential issues are and then a way to remedy it. It can be difficult to get the oil level correct in the tank because it rises and falls to different levels at different times e.g. if the engine is left, the oil will drain slowly out of the oil tank into the engine and then on start up the scavenge pump will rapidly extract all this oil out pumping it back into the tank. During the start up period it will also extract all the oil that would normally have been around the clutch, gearbox and cylinder head area when the engine is running. But due to the fact the engine has been left stationary all this oil is now at the bottom of the engine ready to be drawn out and this can be as much as an extra litre. This will only be in the tank for a short period of time, as a scavenge pump is much larger than the pressure pump (which it needs to be). Once the engine has been running for a few seconds, the engine begins to coat the gearbox, clutch area and cylinder head with a film of oil. This then means the oil level in the tank should go down to its normal running level. Normally when you are using our 5” dry sump tank, the oil level after this initial period can be checked with the engine running and should be approximately 5 – 10mm just below the top baffle which can be seen with the cap removed and normally the engine running.
If you are having difficulty checking the oil level, I would suggest that you turn the engine off and check the oil level within seconds to ensure that the level is correct. But during the start up period the excess oil can sometimes be blown out of the breather. You will usually find that in general the system will find its own level. If you were to use one single catch tank which had a capacity between 1 litre to 2 litres with an exit at the bottom of the tank. This should go to the breather on the top of the gearbox which will allow any excess oil blown out the dry sump tank to drain back into the engine. Then in the side of the catch tank a breather from the dry sump tank. The reason it is done this way round is the dry sump tank will always have positive air pressure, because the scavenge pumps flow a greater volume of oil or oil and air, depending on how much oil is left in the bottom of the engine. This pressure has to go somewhere and eventually needs to get to atmosphere which you can do from the filter of the catch tank. If oil vapour is passed along this breather, it will then drop to the bottom of the catch tank and be returned to the engine. The engine is normally under a slight vacuum which means it will try and draw back the oil that the catch tank has received. The reason I suggest a larger capacity catch tank is that if you have over filled the dry sump tank itself, this will give sufficient space for the excess oil to accumulate safely and then return to the engine. If a tube is fitted to the side of the catch tank this will give you a visual indication of what is going on. For example, if you have put too much oil into the system and it is not being returned to the engine, you will notice the level indicator on the side of the tank could potentially show you that it has oil within it. When the engine is in good condition and the oil level is correct, then the catch tank should remain empty.