Advantages of using SBD Taper throttles over the parallel & direct to head throttle systems
SBD taper throttle body kits are made up from 4 single bodies (on a 4 cylinder engine) which taper from the ram pipe end down to the manifold face, with a butterfly in the middle. the taper then continues on through our inlet manifolds to the cylinder head.
The main advantages of using a tapered singled body over parallel bodies & slides that we have found in tests are:-
1. Being individually adjustable they can be perfectly set-up.
2. We have found that the use of a taper that continues the shape of the ram pipe right through the throttle & manifold up to the valve, has improved torque through almost the entire power band.
3. Also we have found that the use of a butterfly in junction with a taper has improved throttle response. With our latest development of careful injector positioning and angles we have managed to improve response and peak performance even more.
4. The peak BHP that we have seen from the tapers with butterflies is better than we have achieved in similar tests using parallel bodies, barrel throttle bodies or a slide throttle assembly.
Multi-throttles are pairs of parallel throttles which look almost identical to carburettors, but without float chambers. All our multi throttle kits use throttle bodies with idle for fine adjustment of idle mixture & balance. They are available in 118mm standard Long type (the same length as a normal carburettor).
We are also asked regularly about the difference between direct to head and twin/parallel throttle bodies, they both produce about the same performance, although the direct to head has the manifold cast into the assembly which makes it neat to look at. The advantage is that the separate inlet manifold and throttle bodies is that they are more suitable to mounting throttle linkage kits, they can be fitted where the throttle bodies join the inlet manifold either above or below depending on customers preference. The direct to heads only have provision to mount the throttle linkage underneath up against the air filter backplate mounting.
These types of intake systems, although produce reasonable performance, we consider to be the basic throttle body types, where if you are looking for ultimate performance either now or in the future, you should look at SBD taper throttle body designs.
The latest development of our taper throttle body designs comes supplied with a simple cam design throttle mechanism ready to accept a throttle cable, the inlet manifolds also include the most up to date port shapes. We are always working to improve the performance of all our engine kits and the new port design matches perfectly with our latest CNC cylinder head work, however even if you aren't using our cylinder heads you can potentially gain advantage by matching your cylinder head to our inlet manifolds. Certainly all those who have purchased our taper throttle body systems are extremely complimentary about it and the reports are continually coming in with very positive results.
I am researching ITB's for the Fiesta ST150, but had a question which I wondered if you could help with. I've been looking at your TP203bhp kit, and also saw that a chap called Dyrr Ardash has a kit fitted to his Fiesta ST here. My question, how would you go about the fly-by-wire throttle on the Fiesta ST? Does it need replacing with a cable? If so, is this all included in the kit?
All of our systems are now motorsport based due to the costs involved of interacting with the standard management systems, I did look at the kit that was produced by DRM and think that it was an extremely well designed product and couldn't imagine how much money they had spent developing the kit to interact with the standard management system. The reason we don't do anything like that on road based cars is that you can spend many of thousands of pounds if not tens of thousands of pounds for something that only has a short life before Ford stop producing it or change the design. This means that you have little if any chance in re-cooping your development costs, which has to be spread across the number of kits you sell. This is the reason why we stick to motorsport, since we can replace the standard management system where we can control every part of the system and not be hampered by what the road based and evermore complex systems which are continually monitoring to see if the car in every aspect is performing correctly. If anything is picked up by the standard ECU and not operating as it should, as a minimum it will turn an engine warning light on and normally put the engine into 'limp' mode. Finding all the information that the stock ECU requires is a massively complex job, taking many thousands of hours to decypher with possibility that the next time your car is serviced Ford update software and maps completely changing everything you have already deciphered.
When fitting a motorsport management system none of this becomes a problem, the only problem as far as you are concerned being the end user is that the standard management system not only controls the engine, but a mass of other accessories fitted to the car, which again is expensive to be developed for a road car.
The car you have been looking at on our website belonging to Dyrr is a pure race car and therefore none of the problems mentioned above apply. Obviously if you are using a totally stripped out car for fast road and track use only, then this kind of conversion would be the route to go.
I have a Vauxhall Nova MK1 1.6 GTE Injection and I would like to fit throttle bodies to the engine but I am unsure how to go about this and what auxiliary parts I will need please can you advise me.
We have several people carry out a similar conversion of the type you are requesting. The components on our part of the conversion are fairly straightforward. We can supply an ECU, wiring harness, throttle bodies and a few other accessories required. But because your engine is quite old, at the time of its production the electronics used were fairly basic. What we suggest to most people carrying out this kind of conversion is to raid some of the components from the later 8V engines, fitted to either the Corsa or the Nova. This will help to keep your costs down.
The components I suggest you try and source are the distributorless coil pack and HT leads, as well as the mounting brackets. The front trigger wheel/bottom pulley and crank sensor. This will then make your engine ready for fitting the electronics. The only thing we haven't got access to is an inlet manifold to mount carburettor style throttle bodies. You will need to scour the second hand market for a manifold to suit your application.
The prices of the ECU, wiring harness, throttle bodies, throttle position sensor, fuel rails, fitting kit and a base programme to start the engine are available on a downloadable price list on our Web site. With the latest equipment we have, it will be possible to map your engine either on the road or rolling road, to make the engine drive smoothly and produce as much power as possible. All the cars we have programme so far, for the 8V 1600 engine, have usually had cam and head work as well, because of this in the programmes we supply for you to start your engine with, it would not be exact because of the variations in the engine specification we have already programmed.
I went to a track day, the car was running a bit rough, but naively I put that down to the mapping being a bit out. I could not fix the noise issue so ended up bringing the car home - it was good to get the car running though, shame I could not run longer as the track was just starting to dry out. Anyway on inspection yesterday, the rough running was down to the injector wires for cylinders 3 and 4 being on the wrong injectors - not sure how this happened but the upshot is that, having run the car for a few laps like this, I think I may have knackered the pistons on these 2 cylinders - I will confirm for sure this coming weekend. Symptoms are very poor idle, removing ignition to these 2 cylinders does not make the idle any worse, swapping coils and plugs with cylinders 1 and 2 makes no difference (removing coils from 1 and 2 stalls the car), wet plugs, and colder exhaust manifold on cylinders 3 & 4, difficulty revving, would also explain why everyone was faster than me! I know that if I am taking the engine apart to put in new pistons in I should probably upgrade everything, but at this stage I am keen to get the car running without spending a load more cash.
We received this email from one of our customers, you can see that he was obviously worried that he had a major problem. Since I hadn't see the vehicle that long ago, I knew that it was unlikely to be anything serious but it is quite often that a very small problem can lead the owner to think the worse.
I spoke to the customer on the phone and said from what he had described in the email, it sounded like a simple question that the butterflies had potentially closed down or gone out of sync, this lets in less air at tickover and means that the engine runs richer on the cylinder or cylinders where this has happened. This causes the spark plug to soot up and even if the spark plug is removed and cleaned when tested outside the cylinder e.g. laying on top of the engine will get a good spark. Unfortunately when the spark plug is placed back into the cylinder again, the pressure created within the cylinder increases the resistance and the spark inside of jumping the gap tracks down the side of the plug. The process that the spark plug has gone through when it has been playing up quite often prevents the spark plug from recovering. If the spark plugs are replaced with a brand new set, check that all butterflies are synchronised and that the correct kgs of air per hour is going into each cylinder correctly and that the TPS sensor voltage is correctly set up. This will normally rectify most problems.
His worry that the injectors plugged in incorrectly could have caused some damage, this would not be the case as the fuel being supplied was the same to all cylinders.
Obviously you can see from his final email, his problems are now solved and everything is running perfectly. This is a mistake that is regularly made by customers with engines that are perfectly programmed and then take them to a rolling road and end up spending large sums of money having the engines reprogrammed to rectify a fault which had nothing to do with the programming. Simply a small issue with the throttle butterflies going out of sync causing a rich mixture which gives very sooty plugs, when all that was required was accurate resetting of the butterflies.